That is the strangest curiosity yet---a really polite hotel waiter who isn't an idiot
I haven't read any Twain in quite some time. I actually have no Twain in my paper reading journal, which covers the last nine years of books. I had forgotten, or maybe never realized the level of cutting commentary and sardonic humor Twain integrates into his prose.
This book is a travelogue. Twain travels abroad in a time when Americans were rarely seen in Europe. At a time when an arriving boat full of Americans was an event where the Czar would take notice. They traveled on a chartered steamship throughout Europe and the Holy Land. I enjoyed reading Twains characterizations of the places I have visited, particularly Italy, where his assessments were similar to my own, despite the 150 years of separation of our visits. To me much of Italy just seemed worn out. Twain echoes that in his characterization of Venice:
In the glare of day there is little poetry about Venice, but under the charitable moon her stained palaces are white again, their battered sculptures are hidden in shadows and the old city seems crowned once more with the grandeur that was hers five hundred years ago.
Another thing that hasn't changed is the characterization of Americans traveling. Twain's group might not be the first to barge in unaware of local customs, but I hazard to guess that the idea of the crass American tourist may have been popularized by Twain. One example of such behavior was referring to all guides as Ferguson, no matter where they were. Very amusing, but rather insensitive to other cultures.
A theme here that is also present in other Twain stories is the critique of romantic literature. In Huck Finn, it is commentary on romantic fiction writers. Here it was on the similarly romantic travel writers who detailed their fantastic excursions and wonderful experiences in such a manner that any real experience would pale in comparison. And, as Twain wrote it, most did. And those passengers who wrote home and in their journals kept to the romantic standard set by the guide book, turning their lack-luster experiences into perfection. Twain clearly felt the original source material and the writings of his fellow passengers to be equally pour reproductions of reality.
Overall, an enjoyable read. Twain brings you along for all the enjoyment and frustration of overseas travel. As you read, you realize that few things have changed in the people and the world---other than the population of Jerusalem and the view from the Duomo.
